Continuing north, we left Sintra to drive to Coimbra, Portugal’s fourth largest city.

Nic had heard a podcast episode about a local hero who helped Portugal win the critical Battle of Aljubarrota against Spain in 1385. This battle safeguarded Portuguese independence and established a new dynasty. To commemorate the victory, John I of Portugal built a magnificent monastery and founded the town of Batalha. We stopped for lunch there and admired the soaring walls of the huge chapel. In an otherwise small and normal town, this huge ornate building really sticks out.

Coimbra has treated us well this week. We’re staying right next to an old convent and monastery with views across the river to historic downtown.

We walked into town a few days ago and visited the Igreja de Santa Cruz. We’ve seen churches decorated with oil paintings, tapestries, and stained glass, but this church has an azulejo-lined interior dating from the 1100s. I had seen the church first when taking a quick walk the night we arrived. I was walking through a charming pedestrianized shopping street, chatting with my mom on the phone and not paying much attention to my surroundings, and popping out at a pretty little plaza with this intricate church facade surprised me!

It has rained on and off here, so we’ve spent some time indoors doing school or shopping by car. We found one of the coolest playgrounds of the whole trip inside a mall. I haven’t been in an indoor mall since who knows when, but a few of us needed to replace some worn-out clothing items. We found much-needed socks and a shirt for Morgan, and the kids got to climb high above the mall floor!

As usual, the whole family also enjoyed a stroll in Coimbra’s botanical garden. All we really need is a free restroom, fish ponds, and a bamboo thicket. Sunshine helps too.